It is July and some people are already planning for the December holiday. Well, at least I am. We have not really decided on where to go but one consideration is to go back to Kerala in South India. I was holidaying there way back in 2005 – spent about 10 days there and thoroughly enjoyed the trip. I think Kerala was named as one of the top 50 destinations in the world by National Geographic and truly lived to the accolade.
Most Asians / Malaysians who visit India would typically cover the New Delhi/Agra/Jaipur route. Not many seems to know about Kerala - It is a pity because the place has so much to offer. When we were there way back in 2005, we could hardly see any Asians there. We saw a few Japanese backpackers but there were definitely no Malaysians. The local shopkeepers were all so curious to find out our nationality when we told them we’re not from Japan/Korea :-) My memories of the place:
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Getting to Kerala
There was no direct flight to Cochin then – Cochin’s the gateway to Kerala. And the cheapest flight we could find was via Sri Lankan Airlines, with 2 stops i.e. KUL-SG-Colombo-Cochin. We have never been to Sri Lanka but it was good that we at least managed to visit the airport. J The airline’s actually quite good – good service and delicious in-flight food.
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Cochin town – We arrive at this small lovely, seaside town in the evening. Being my first time in India, I was a bit apprehensive about the place initially. As I spent more days there, I begun to like it more. It was pretty easy to go around by foot (although one may get stares now and then). And then there’s the old Ambassador taxi cars (which were probably more than 25 years old) and the ferries (ferry ride was actually quite pleasant, and not that crowded). There’s quite a lot to do in the town itself:
Mattancherry --- visit the historical sites –the Jew town, synagogue, church; One can spend the whole afternoon there esp if you like to shop as well. Lots of small little shops selling local handicrafts/souvenirs although it can be more pricey than the normal shops in town. For e.g., I found the kurtas cheaper in the town area (shops where locals frequent);
Fort Cochin – I personally liked staying at Fort Cochin (we stayed at a premium quaint guesthouse called Chiramel Residency) better than the other side of the lake as there’s less traffic, with a more laidback feel. Anyhow, it is quite easy to go to the other side of lake via ferry. Business districts are also on the other side and get a better feel of local life on the other side of lake. What can one do at Fort Cochin? Take leisurely walk in the evening to look at the churches nearby, the fishermen fishing using the traditional Chinese fishing nets. Lots of street vendors selling catches of the day. Or just go for a ferry ride to enjoy the sunset and scenery. Or drop by one of the luxurious hotels for tea and enjoy the hotel seaview / garden.
Kathakali performance – watching the performers putting on their make-up is itself interesting (yes they do that in front of the audience before the performance begins). Their makeup is as (if not more) elaborate than that of the Chinese Opera performers. Admission ticket to performance is not cheap and one has to book early (cos the place gets filled up quite fast). Performance lasted about 2-3hours
Walk around downtown – get a taste of the local food, lifestyle, culture by walking around town on foot. To MG Road etc. We went to the bank to exchange some money, and change our flight home – English is widely spoken – so no problems at all
Food – Seafood is cheap. Also went to one of restaurants at Fort Cochin which mainly caters to tourists - one can get “Chinese” food here as well. Dec’s not the mango season but other local fruit juices (pineapple) are just as tasty…just be a bit careful with food/drink intake as one may develop diarahea (I didn’t get one until days later)
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Alleppey backwaters - this was the highlight of our trip. Absolutely stunning scenery and great experience. Strongly recommend touring the backwaters in an overnight houseboat cruise. We initially wanted to do the 3D/2N trip (from Alleppey to Kollam) but as it was the peak season (Xmas), most tour cos. only offer overnight trips (starts at about 12 noon till 9 am next morning). Despite the peak period, we manage to get a good rate for an overnight cruise i.e. Rp 5000 for 2 persons. Non-a/c room, two to a room with attached bathroom(one really does not need air-con) Some houseboats have air-con with 2-3 rooms per boat. Price is inclusive of tour guide, lunch, tea and dinner.
I must say the houseboat food (lunch/tea/dinner – banana fritters for tea, rice with seafood/vegs for dinner) was really yummy and service’s great (there will be 3 local workers in the boat i.e. a guide, the cook and a boatman, but they mostly leave us to ourselves to enjoy the view). Enjoy the beautiful view as one cruise down the endless network of little canals, rivers, lakes during daytime. Occasionally you would pass by the small villages where one can see women do their daily washing / cooking near the river banks and children take their baths. At night, the houseboat will stop in the middle of a lake – one can sleep at the open deck under the stars (ok, not for long cos then the mosquitoes may get to you) or on the comfy bed in the room
Getting to Alleppey itself is an interesting story… In order to save cost, we decided to take a train from Cochin to Alleppey. To get to the train station in Cochin, we took a local bus. The bus ride was really scary as the bus was quite old and the driver, very aggressive (perhaps worse than Malaysian drivers). The bus was like within inches from an oil tanker. On the other hand, the train ride was pleasant, not as crowded as one would imagine in the movies (ok, definitely no one sitting on the train roof-top). Train was quite punctual (unlike another friend’s experience in New Delhi, where the train was delayed by more than 5 hours). Due to a miscommunication, we did not manage to get first class tickets and joined the locals in the normal carriage (Non-a/c) with open windows. It’s not bad at all – not as crowded as we would imagine. A breezy ride. Just be aware that the train does not stop for a long time at the train station in Cochin and there’s no announcement – we practically had to chase after the train (it started moving before we can embark).
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Varkala – A popular beach resort; but the good thing is it is not that crowded (as say, Goa according to another backpacker tourist). Stayed at one the budget guesthouse (clean, cheap and convenient) located at the cliff-top – the cliff-top is a touristy place with rows and rows of hotels/guesthouses, restaurants and small shops catering to the tourists. The good thing about staying at the cliff top is that it is so convenient – one can walk down the flight of steps to the long stretch of beach at the bottom of a cliff, chill out at the beach and then conveniently walk up for a drink/meal or to one’s room to answer nature’s call. One can practically spend weeks here – yoga in the morning (some foreigners were doing the sun salutation at the beach during sunrise), go sun-bathing in the afternoon, ayurvedic massages in the evening and shopping at night. Or just take cab ride down town and visit the famous Janardan Swami Temple
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Periyar – Wildlife reserve. Hired a private car (with driver) from Varkala to Periyar. Personally, I think Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is over-rated and a disappointment. We thought it would be more convenient to stay in the Sanctuary itself but quickly regretted staying there and moved out after one night. We stayed at the Periyar House (inside the Sanctuary and run by the government) which costs some Rp 1100 per night. This hotel is considered an economic place in the Sanctuary but for that kind of price, one can get far better place outside. The room, although spacious, looked old. And there’s definitely nothing to do in the evening/at night except to watch TV or unless one goes outside the Sanctuary. But to go out to town for dinner/to shop, you have to pay when you re-enter the Sanctuary.
We went for the day-trek package (you need to pay for gears and guide) but did not manage to see any wild animals except a few elephants from afar (no tigers, wild boars). After trekking for hours, one will reach the hilltop – the view’s magnificent.
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Shopping – good buys in Kerala include pashiminas and kurtas. Bough kurtas for my nieces/nephew for less than RM5 each and they looked so cute in them.. I managed to get adult kurtas for between RM10-15. Other good buys include embroidered wall hangings (which can be used as a sofa throw) and cushion covers. Souvenirs like fridge magnets are hard to find, even in touristy places like Mattancherry and Varkala